"It not infrequently happens that something about the earth, about the sky, about other elements of this world, about the motion and rotation or even the magnitude and distances of the stars, about definite eclipses of the sun and moon, about the passage of years and seasons, about the nature of animals, of fruits, of stones, and of other such things, may be known with the greatest certainty by reasoning or by experience, even by one who is not a Christian. It is too disgraceful and ruinous, though, and greatly to be avoided, that he [the non-Christian] should hear a Christian speaking so idiotically on these matters, and as if in accord with Christian writings, that he might say that he could scarcely keep from laughing when he saw how totally in error they are." St. Augustine, The Literal Interpretation of Genesis
Slept in a bit today. We actually didn't leave until about 10 AM, but we had a definite agenda. Today we drove to the John Day Fossil Beds and their Interpretation Center. The first part of the drive was typical Eastern Oregon fair. Beautiful green valleys tucked between high hills and buttes.
Eventually, however, the road turns north and we entered the Picture Gorge (above). It would be hard to capture in words or photos the stark contrasts of color and shape in the gorge. Not only are there the standard reds, yellows, and greens, but even blues appear in this gorge. It is not a large gorge, quickly opening up into a more standard valley.
The John Day Fossil Beds are apparently the richest in North America. There are millions of years of detailed strata, allowing paleontologists to track the history of the area in great details. Not only fauna, but detailed flora as well: nuts, leaves, seeds as well as the standard petrified trunks and limbs. The fauna changed gradually as the area transformed from a tropical jungle to a savanna. Not dinosaurs though. The John Day Fossil Bed is about the mammals and their history in North America. The fossil beds themselves, of course, are beautiful cathedral structures. Hot rock and mud frozen in media res.
We saw a film about the history of the fossil beds that was very good. There were several pointed remarks about evidence and Charles Darwin. "Me thinks the lady doth protest too much." The current problems between science and religion (if indeed there really are any) are a relatively new debate (as Augustine makes clear). Few Christians in our past actually believed that Genesis was some kind of literal description of the beginning of the universe. However, as the Enlightenment arose, the only truth that mattered was one that good be tested and measured. A truth wasn't true unless it could be shone to be a fact. The creationists buy into this idea and are forced to prove something that of course they can't - that Genesis is true and the fossil record is wrong. It is science, however, and not religion who must face the paternity suit for these unfortunates. When we believe truth can be measured with a yard stick, we all become fundamentalists.
After the fossil beds we continued through a world that turned greener as we moved north. We stopped in Ritter, at the end of a lonely dead end road. Ritter has hot springs, but they are neither the modern kind with the resort etc., nor the natural one that you run across off a path. They were apparently very popular around the turn of the century (they even had their own stage coach stop - still standing below).
The family who owns it now keeps it very much in that style. The old lodge, dressing rooms, and even the pools themselves have been little updated over the years. The place has a bit of a quaint broken down feel to it. But it is peaceful and beautiful. Michelle was not impressed. None of the waters are particularly hot - but there is definitely a volcanic fragrance to them. I soaked and then swam in the pool for about 45 minutes. Swimming is absolutely invigorating to me.
We returned home - after a lengthy stop for construction (no one ever seems to plan these very well). Once again I ended the life of some hapless wild animal. Some sort of prairie grouse-chicken thing ran across the road as we went along. I tried to dodge, but of course it turned into me.
We ate at the Outpost again. Good burger - and we tried the house special: fried pickles. I know - not what I would want either - but they were actually very good. The batter is the key - it really enhances the flavor. If you're ever here, don't be afraid to give them a try.
Tonight Michelle is swimming with me at the hotel pool. It is hard to get her in the water - so it should be fun.
Health note: Cyst was a little weird this morning, but better tonight. I think the soak did it some good. Rash still there. I don't get rashes, so this is strange.
Michelle here...it's been a great vacation...the dogs have been enjoying sticking their heads out the window, sometimes it is so exciting they can't make up their minds which window to sniff from.
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